This week

Shalom all!
Right now I'm sitting at Cafe Hillel (on Hillel street!) using their WIFI and shady outdoor tables. The weather is gorgeous in the shade.
The last few days have been awesome!  I'm going to start with last Thursday.
On Thursday (it was HOT) and I decided to walk to the Kotel (the wailing wall.)
I took over a few notes that people gave me and I brought my camera.

 This is the Armenian quarter near the Jaffa Gate. There were three chandeliers hanging in this tunnel. It was cool!

 A view I found accidentially of Jerusalem outside of the old city.

 Overlook into the Western Wall plaza

 Women's section of the Kotel

 Katie-- your note is the center one, folded twice!

 Woman with a tallit on, not during women of the wall but just a regular day.

 Thursday at the wall-- very few pray-ers at 2pm!

 Sign for my school!

On Friday, a group of us went to Tel Aviv for the day and for Shabbat. I forogt to take pictures of the beach, but I did take a few pictures of the place where we went to Shabbat Services. We went to Beit Tefilah Israeli, a congregation that holds its Kabbalat Shabbat service on the Tel Aviv port. Tel Aviv is a beautiful city and the meddierranian is an incredible body of water. However, Tel Aviv, while fun and modern, lacks the magic of JErusalem. In my opinion, Jerusalem offers an extrodinary element to the modernity of the times-- it's almost like frozen history thrown into the modern day. I love that so much!

 Spotted in Tel Aviv. Thanks for the head's up about your hair salon, Dad.

The following four pictures are from Beit Tefilah Israeli on the port!

 

On Saturday morning, I woke up with a billion bug bites. I am covered in what I thought was bed bugs but it turns out are mosquito bites (UGH) I went to services anyway because I was awake and itchy. I am SO glad I went because I ran into Sara Stock Mayo's sister Rachel at services at HUC! (Sara is the Cantor at Temple Sinai where I worked the last two years. I met Rachel a few times and we spent a lot of time together during Sara's son's Bar Mitzvah last month.) 

She invited me to go on  a walking tour with her Temple from St. Paul. It was UNBEARABLY hot on Saturday, but it was Shabbat and I didn't have plans. I am SO grateful she invited me along, because I learned so much! From the beginning at 1pm until I left the group at 5:40, I was soaking in so much. We went to The Church of the Holy Sepulcher which was completely incredible. I was overwhelmed with the beauty of this place combined with the history. There are various church groups who "own" parts of the building. The Greek Orthodox, the Roman Catholics, the Egyptian Coptic, Ethiopian Coptic, Armenian Orthodox ( I think I listed them all.) They struggle just like the other religions in Jerusalem for control and to establish themselves as a part of the church and community.  It was really interesting and beautiful.

A view from a rooftop in the Old City. 

We also went as a group through all four quarters of the Old City. Tzvi (the tour guide) seemed to know everyone and know exactly how to take us to the best spots.   We got REALLY close to the  Dome of the Rock, which was breath taking. He took us all over including to the top of the Austrian Hospice which was the best view of Jerusalem I've ever seen. 

Austrian Hospice

Austrian Hospice 

Austrian Hospice 

Me and Rachel on the top of the Hospice! IT was SO great to hang out with her!

 

It was a long day, but I learned so much and I can't wait to immerse myself in the culture of Jerusalem even more! 

In the Arab Quarter, we saw many doors decorated like this. This means, according to Tzvi, that these people have made a hajj to Mecca. People write the dates they went and how many times. It's really cool!

We also went to a small section of the Wall that is closer to where the Holy of Holies used to be. It was really a moment because as we were there together, Rabbi Spilker (Rachel's husband) led us in the Sh'ma. As we sang the prayer, the muezzin came on over the speakers (from the Dome of the Rock) and started afternoon prayers. Our prayers were in harmony with those of our Muslim brothers and sisters. I was close to tears (surprise) because of how beautiful this contrast was and how much I felt the need for peace at that moment. I want to wish all those observing a Ramadan Kareen. My prayer is that everyone has a chance to get spiritually filled up during this month.

Then on Sunday morning at 6:15am, my classmates and I went to the Kotel or the Rosh Chodesh (New Month) prayers with the Women of the Wall. If you don't know much about the WoW, here is a link to their website. They are an incredible group of women, fighting for egalitarianism in this holy prayer space. Women wear tallitot, wrap t'fillin and pray out loud! IT was SUCH a privledge to be able to pray with the women who live here and fight for the ability of all Jews to pray in the way they see fit. It was SO cool. (Also, a lady protested us by blowing a loud whistle when we started-- you can see the video on the WoW website. She was escorted out of the plaza by the police who was the same guy who arrested Anat Hoffman many times for praying out loud and wearing a Tallit. The enemy has become the friend.)

These are all pictures of me and of my classmates praying with the WoW. I can't WAIT until we get to wake up at 5:30am and do this again next month! Maybe, please God, we will have a real, actual Torah from which to read. 

Today, I went to the central bus station and got a RavKav (a bus/ train pass), making me a true Jerusalemite!

My bug bites are less itchy (thank you Benadryl!) and I am still in search of a fan/ shelves for my room. We will see how this all plays out!

Old Pictures

These pictures have nothing to do with Israel. I found them on the memory card today. (I miss you, sweet Bub!) Pictures of my adventures in the Old City will follow.

Why the name?

If you have this blog bookmarked (and even if you don't) you may have noticed the name is "aliciagoestolifeschool." You may be wondering the origin of this url (or maybe not.)

With the exception of a few of my friends (shout out to the crew, #5guysandanoshlag), most people my age are in, or are graduating from, "grad school" of some kind. Now that a college diploma is worth what a high school degree once was and a high school degree has significantly depreciated in value, grad school is the next move for many of us in our twenties who are still a little unsure about the world and our future in it.
If you have figured out what you want to do, or are doing something else before going to school, or haven't finished school yet already find yourself knowing your path, or you pulled a Zuckerberg and left school because it wasn't for you or because you wanted to work (and stumbled into billionaire life), color me impressed. These are sincere and honest decisions and come from within.

My experience is that universities have become bubbles for many of us-- we are comfortable and feel protected by the environment that academia provides. Because we are taking out hundreds of thousands of dollars in loans, meaning the money isn't ours, combined with the fact that we don't feel the effects of this debt until after we are done with school, we have found ways to continue on in our safe academic womb for longer than any generation before us.

When I started telling people I was going to Rabbinical School, many misheard "Medical School." I worked on the clear pronunciation of "rabbinical" after many elated smiles and enthusiastic grins turned into quizzical looks upon my correction of said miscommunication. Though I always say that in my next life I'm going to be a gastroenterologist because I'm already a colon expert and desperately want a seat at the doctor's table,  what comes out of people interests me much less than that which is already inside them. When we pray the MiSheberach (healing) prayer during the Torah service, we pray not only for bodily recovery for our loved ones, but also for refu'at ha-nefesh. The latter is the kind of doctoring  and science that holds my attention.

A very smart woman I know always says, "medicine is an art, not a science." There is a lot of trial and error involved in the diagnosis and eradication of any condition. A skilled doctor looks at the whole body, as well as each individual symptom, to figure out the best and most effective treatment or balance of medications (another art).  Many may argue that doctors are scientists--they go to school to learn the latest scientific methods, research, procedures, etc. to most effectively treat their patients.  I suggest we view doctors as artists because nothing can be predicted exactly--because people have had to, and continue to, color outside the strict lines of the most up-to-date science available.

So yes, I am going to school to  be a scientist of the Torah and our other ancient texts, to learn how to be an effective teacher and student, to be a part of the continuity of our people.  These things are the science part of this experience. The "book learning" that will allow me to go into the world and turn that knowledge into an art is what the physical schooling will provide. That learning, I would call the "Grad School" part of my experience. However these years are destined for so much more than just school. I am learning the "art" of living my life; of becoming an adult and a Rabbi.

This is why I couldn't call this blog something like "Alicia in Israel" or "Alicia in the first year of Rabbinical School." I am blessed with the way my wonderful university community (H2P) allowed me to thrive and mature in a protected, monitored environment. HUC is by no means throwing us into the deep end without our floaties--this school, too, is a caring community filled with opportunities for enrichment and growth. But there is something different about this time around. I don't feel so comforted and protected by the umbrella of academia. Perhaps it's the miles (and miles and miles) between me and the best city in the country full of mid-west heart and north-west weather.  Perhaps it's the confidence everyone has in me to live out this journey. Perhaps it's because, like many people whom I admire, I have been guided to a sincere and honest desire to learn both the science and the art of my life.

MY first week adventures (PIctures to follow!)

I wrote this today, during the afternoon! My internet is working pause not. (No internet right now. Check back later in the week for pictures of said events!)

Shabbat Shalom l’kulam!

Shabbat Shalom everyone!

I am sitting in my room in Jerusalem, enjoying a light breeze and bright sky, not a cloud in sight!

It has been one heck of a week here in Israel.  I met my classmates, saw the Jerusalem Lights festival (the elephants below were part of this-- Richard, they were walking on the wall!!)went to Ikea, ate hummus, discovered zatar, went to two services, did some OA work—it’s been awesome!

Let’s start from the beginning:

Some of my classmates are here for pre-ulpan (intensive Hebrew study.) I am required to attend ulpan starting on July 7, so right now I’m just getting settled in, finding my doctors, getting my room set up, etc. etc.

From the time I arrived on Monday until Thursday night I stayed with Jordy (also a Pitt alum) and her roommate Leah, because my apartment wasn’t ready yet.  The person occupying my room hadn’t moved out yet. Leah and Jordy kindly let me stay on their couch until my room was empty enough to occupy. (Occupy Alicia’s Bedroom… I am the 1%!) Now that I am in my place, I busted out my air mattress that I packed, not knowing the exact situation of the apartment until after I arrived. I figured I could stay anywhere on my mattress so I wouldn’t worry too much.

On Tuesday we (Jordy and I) went to the school, met the staff who helped make this all possible for us, met our classmates, and checked out the shuk (open air market.)

(I can’t get on the internet right now so I can’t quite remember the info I have and have not relayed.)

On Wednesday, I went with a bunch of the other students on an adventure to Ikea. Having never been to an Ikea ever, I wasn’t sure what to expect. First, we had to rent cars (we rented TWO because 6 of us went and the cheapest car to rent was a Fiat—we would not have fit!) Ikea was huge.

 It was like being in a never-ending Home Depot nightmare situation.  Except they had a really great salad bar, so that’s what I had for lunch. Fresh veggies and salady stuff! Then each of us split into our roommate pairs to get the things the apartments needed like chairs and trashcans and pillows and decorations and etc.

The sheets here leave MUCH to be desired (I brought my own pillow cases but not sheets… mistake!) So the others were so excited to have a chance to buy soft, thick sheets. Because at this point I didn’t know what the size of my bed would be, I didn’t buy anything of that nature. I DID get a soft blanket, a pillow, and a comforter.

Ikea was fun, but I was really dragging toward the end of the trip.  Jenn and I also bought cushions for the chairs in our apartment, tupper ware for packing lunches and a few other things.

The girls then dropped me off at the place my English speaking meeting was supposed to take place. However, I stayed way past the time of the meeting and no one ever showed up. I was bummed, because I was really excited to fellowship with my people. So I took a quick cab ride back to Jordy’s and went out to a dairy restaurant. (Here the restaurants are either dairy/parve or meat. This place served smoked tuna—like nova lox, but instead of salmon it was tuna. It was incredible)

I got a chance to talk to Lauren back home and my heart just filled up.  I am SO lucky to have my fellows to talk to. 

Thursday I woke up and walked over to East Jerusalem, where my pharmacy is. Now, you may have the same kinds of questions I did, such as: Why East Jerusalem, why not just the pharmacy across the street from the school? What does ‘East Jerusalem’ even mean? How close or far is that? Why walk?

The answer to why East Jerusalem is: my insurance found a place that will dispense my injections and accept my insurance.

East JErusalem

What does ‘East Jerusalem’ mean? Great question! Here is what I found out: East Jerusalem is a section of the city where there seem to be more Palestinians than Jews. Israel and Palestine have differing viewpoints on the city of Jerusalem, which I won’t get into, but basically, from my observations, most Jerusalem residents of Arab descent live in East Jerusalem.

I am of the mindset that all people should have the chance to live together in peace, that none of this fighting is necessary, that people are all made B’tzelem Elohim—in the image of God, and kindness and tolerance should be the creed of all.  Instead, it seems things in Jerusalem (not all of Israel, as I have no experience to speak to that issue, though my guess would be that the situation is similar) are separated by ethnicity, religion, or race.  I decided to walk to Sultan Soliman (the street where the pharmacy is located) because I honestly thought it would be easier than explaining to a cab what I was doing.

 I (of course) got lost on the way there and found myself walking through the Old City. I turned down a street that was full of Jewish tschochkies (sp?!) and my map told me to just continue down that street for a while. So I did, and I found myself in the Muslim quarter, in the shuk there. Unlike the shuk in the Jewish quarter, there were actual Jerusalemites shopping at the Arab shuk,  buying groceries, clothing, working, etc. etc. etc. It was so packed in there that I didn’t even think to take out my phone to take pictures. I just wanted to get out so I could breathe! It was so hot!

Finally, after twisting and turning through this shuk situation, I found my way through the Damascus gate and into East Jerusalem.  It was like being in a totally different country. Everyone was speaking only Arabic, the dress was dramatically different, the cleanliness of the streets was different , the sights and smells and everything all different.   (The video above is of the sounds and sights. I hope it works!)

I was in shock and awe (anyone get that reference?) of the difference—I just didn’t expect the lines between the peoples to be so dramatic! I went to the pharmacy and dealt with my Humira, which was the easiest part of the journey, and walked back toward the shuk and lunch (at which point I called my parents, thinking it was 6:45 am in Pittsburgh, but it was really 5:45 am… Sorry guys! You know that math is not my strong suit.)  I walked up a huge hill and all of a sudden at a certain point things turned back into the Jerusalem with which I am familiar. Signs in Hebrew, men in white and black, all the normal stuff.  I had lunch (quinoa salad… yum!) and then I moved out of Jordy and Leah’s place to my apartment. I’m sure they were glad to have me out of their hair, and I was excited to get to my place.

That evening, all the students who are here went to a few different places in the neighborhood around the shuk (aka my neighborhood) The shuk, which shuts down at night, has about 6 or so great bars where people were watching the Uruguay/ England (I think?) game. There were big screens and people just hanging out where I bought all my veggies earlier in the day. It was cool to see, but I was exhausted so I went home at about 11.

Friday morning I woke up and went to a meeting in English, which was lovely. Then I decided to take a cab to East Jerusalem, because the meeting was far from where I needed to go and I was feeling really drained—don’t worry, Mom, I’m drinking plenty of water and sleeping well!  The taxi was unable to get me very close to the main street where the pharmacy is because the roads were all blocked. Barricades were up and IDs were being checked.  After circling the small streets for a few minutes and realizing he couldn’t get me closer, the taxi driver finally dropped me off on a side street close enough to walk to the main drag. I walked up to a man in uniform and said hello and asked how to get to the pharmacy. He let me right through after he heard my accent, though he was confused about why I was walking down a side street to get to him. I walked past the gates and onto Sultan Soliman only to see that it was a complete ghost town.

 

The people in this picture on the right are waiting to get into the Old City.

What had been a lively, bustling street with shops and myriad people, had become a desolate, silent street with no movement. The stores were almost ALL closed (except the pharm!) and no one was out. It was the quietest I have heard Jerusalem since I arrived. There’s a lot of mishugas here; people carrying on, yelling, cars honking—all sounds one might expect from a busy city.  In fact, just the day before, those same sounds were filling the air on Sultan Soliman. The lack of noise was astounding. I thought that perhaps traffic was a little quieter due to Friday being the day of prayer for Muslims, but once I figured out that no one could go in or out without stopping to see the guards at the gates, I was miffed.

I preface this section by saying that this is my opinion as of June 21, 2014. This may change. I may come back to this blog and say, “wow, what was I thinking?” However, for now, this is where I am. I would happily have a meaningful conversation with anyone about this offline.

I am struggling, really struggling, to understand exactly what is happening here. Who is who, what people identify as, where people are physically located—the logistics, really.  I don’t know that I’ll ever get a handle on that, but that only scratches the surface of the questions I have. 

As Jews, we are taught from a young age to invite the stranger to our Passover table and to love all people because God made us in God’s image.  I was most shocked about the barricades in East Jerusalem because it is beyond me how we, as good Jews, can take such a stance against other human beings. The kidnapping of the three young men is not acceptable and I pray for their safe return to their parents waiting arms. However, I just can’t reconcile my belief that all people are children of God with the way people treat one another in this country. I don’t just mean within the context of the Israeli Palestinian conflict. I’m also concerned with how Jews of differing levels of observance levels treat one another. I went to an Orthodox minyan for Friday night services and, though everyone was perfectly nice, realized how challenging I find the non-egalitarian structure. There is a physical separation of men and women with the mechizta as well as male dominance within the prayer structure and leadership.  My rabbinical smicha (certification) won’t be recognized by most of the Jewish population in Israel.

The women in my class have had varying experiences. Upon answering the common query regarding their reason for being in Jerusalem, many find themselves on the receiving end of lectures or as the butt of a joke.  If other Jews can’t accept my choice to work toward a position of leadership in our own religion, how can they look outside themselves to accept and embrace their Arab neighbors? I don’t have an answer –this place is so complicated and thought provoking. I have come away from this week with more questions than I had before I came here.  I pray that throughout the year, these questions, and all others that arise, will help me come to understand this place to which my people are tied.

I wish you a Shabbat Shalom, a day of rest and connection with the God of your understanding. May you find peace in your hearts, in your homes, and in your communities. May Israel find peace as this Shabbat comes to an end. May this peace we experience on Shabbat stay with us throughout the week ahead.

(a real estate agent called an immoblier-- this is like the car called NoVA)

 These flowers were amazing.

It was REALLY hot on Thursday

Hi all!
I have made it to Jerusalem, safe and sound.
I just spent my first FULL day here. BOY am I tired. This city is incredible. There is so much to learn and do and I can't wait to grow here.I did so much already in the last two days. Let me try to recount everything for you!
     Yesterday, I flew through Munich (which was really neat) Having never been to Germany before, it was really cool to see such a different type of airport. The people were not as nice as Pittsburghers-- a little more standoffish. No one wanted to discuss the Stillers, how great/horrible the weather was, or how bad every other Pittsburgher is at driving. So instead of making new friends, I ate breakfast at this out of place fancy restaurant situation, which had chandeliers hanging in the middle of the terminal. They had veggie salads and fresh lox (so that's what I did!)

     I then got on a plane full of Americans to get to Israel. There were 6 or 7 families with young kids that had been split up by the airline-- their kids (all under 7) were sitting alone. It created some major chaos while they tried to figure out who should sit where, who needed to trade seats, etc etc etc.
After that insanity, the flight was full of 4 hours and 15 minutes of screaming religious children. It was super, although I was able to sleep through most of it (face down on sweatshirt on tray table.-- it's the most workable method.)
     Once I got to Tel Aviv, I was so excited! I got my bags and right away got through customs and out to the public part of the airport. It was really nice to see people reuniting and I thought about how I can't wait for that to be me! (God willing) I then proceeded to go to the phone store (which didn't have my SIM card... still waiting on this. ) Then I got a sheirut (the Israeli version of super shuttle... only Israel had it first) Basically, this story ends with me not having enough shekels to pay the guy, so I gave him all the one dollar bills I had (16.) He got really mad at me (rightly so) and so I asked him to give me his phone number so I could call him and give him the rest of the money. He did this, and I called him today.
He was NOT nice and then hung up on the Student Life advisor Nancy when she tried to call back. I think he was shocked I actually called him--- but he wanted to get together in the evening in a place that I hadn't heard of... so OBVIOUSLY I refused this. Nancy stuck up for me, thank God, and then he hung up on her. I might try back one more time tomorrow-- I'll just have to see.
Last night I met a lot of the kids on my program for a drink and nosh at an INCREDIBLE rooftop bar with a 360 view of Jerusalem. I had my own veggies and stuff, so that was fun! Then we went to the Jerusalem festival of Lights (basically like those rows and rows of houses with crazy light up Christmas decorations) It was cool, and they had some neat things happening, but I hit a wall and couldn't deal anymore-- so I didn't. We went home.
Today I went to breakfast at a cute place near the school (SO good. Shakshuka-- eggs and tomato sauce and brilliance) then to the College for the first time. HUC's campus here is stunning. I was taken aback by the amazing stone, the courtyards, the life. It was cool.
Then, Jordy (my friend from Pitt; we overlapped tow years there) and I went to the shuk for fresh veggies and lunch.

GOOD CALL on the shuk. I love it there. I went back again to get veggies for dinner.
Tonight I ate dinner at the place that will be my apartment in about a week or two
I'm so excited to continue my recovery process here,!)
As you can see, I'm making grammatical errors right now. I'm SO tired.

With love to all,
Alicia